Nandina domestica

The bright red berries are up to 9mm (3/8in) in diameter and contain two seeds. They are arranged in a large panicle that arches and is a feature of the plant throughout winter. The seeds are viable but the plant may be reproduced vegetatively.

Note; Take care as all parts of the plant contain Hydrogen cyanide and are poisonous if consumed. It is toxic to dogs, cats, humans, livestock and birds.

Sow fresh seed during spring in pots and place in a cold frame to germinate.

Divide the clump during winter.

Take semi hardwood cuttings during summer and placed in a sandy mix under glass, and do not reduce the leaves.

Propagation by Seed (General)

Germination

In order for a seed to germinate it must fulfil three conditions.

1. The embryo must be alive (a viable seed).

2. The seed must have no dormancy-inducing physiological, physical or chemical barrier to germination; also the seed must be nondormant.

3. The seed must have the appropriate environmental requirements, water, temperature and oxygen.

The interaction between these requirements and dormancy is complex and may lead to different environmental requirements that avoid the dormancy of a seed.

Sowing Seeds in Containers

There are two general methods for germinating seeds.

1. Sowing seeds in a flat or germinating bed, through which seedlings are pricked-out then, transplanted into another flat with wider spacing or directly to an individual pot.

2. Sowing seeds by placing them in to flats with the appropriate spacing or into individual pots.

This method is normally carried out with medium to large seeds such as woody plants and plants that are difficult to transplant.  

Seedling production normally occurs in a greenhouse / glasshouse, cold frames and on hot beds.

Method of Seed Sowing

Fine seed is sown in pots or flats that are no deeper than 70 to 80 mm. using a sterilised well-drained media (soil). Fill the container to 20 mm from the top and sprinkle sieved peat to 3 mm depth.

Press the media down level and firm with a piece of timber and then thoroughly moisten.

Mix the fine seed with washed sand and then sow thinly on the surface. These may be lightly covered with sand.

Larger seeds may be covered with media or a hole is dibbled and the seed is placed in the media.

Watering Methods

For watering you may either mist the containers from above or place the container in tepid water and allow the water to raise through the pot to the surface of the media, then drain away and do not fill to the top of the container.

Place a piece of glass over the pot and store in a protected warm environment (glasshouse).

Seeds germinate best in darkness so shade the containers if in direct sunlight.

After the seedlings have sprouted remove the glass and ease the seedlings into direct light.

When the seedlings are large enough prick them out and transplant into larger containers and place them in a shade house to harden off.

Many seeds have different methods of seed preparation for germination such as nicking or cutting the seed coat to allow water penetration, also placing seeds in hot water and allowing it to cool off.

This is particularly important as it is softening the seed coat.

Asexual Propagation (Cuttings general)

Propagation from cuttings is possible because every cell of a plant containers the genetic information to create an entire plant.

1. Reproduction occurs through the formation of adventitious roots and shoots.

2. The uniting of vegetative parts with budding and grafting.

3. Taking stem cuttings and layering is possible due to the development of adventitious roots

4. Root cuttings can form new shoots and it is possible to join roots and shoots to form a new plant.

5. A new plant may be formed from a single cell in an aseptic culture system, (cloning).

It is important to propagate vegetatively as this form of cloning retains the unique characteristics of the cultivars or where particular aspects of a plant may be lost if propagated by seed.

Equipment Required for Taking Cuttings

1. A sharp knife that is not too large or a razor mounted in a handle.

2. Good pair of sharp secateurs that is clean.

3. A dibbler to make a hole in the media and allow the cutting to be placed in.

4. Propagation structures that are either a timber frame with glass or polyethylene cover or a glasshouse.

The object of the structure is to create an environment where the temperature and humidity can be controlled. This can be achieved with a simple cover over a pot with a wire frame and plastic.

This stops the draughts and maintains humidity.

5. A hotbed is a useful item as many plants root more quickly if the media is slightly warmer.

Bottom heat is obtained from thermostatically controlled heating cables that are running under the media.

6. Misting systems are of great benefit to cuttings as the regulated fogging with water inhibits the cuttings from drying out and as a result the cuttings may be grown in full sun.

This results in faster root development and less subject to diseases by fungi and bacteria.

7. Rooting mediums

The rooting medium must be well drained, sand may be used as long as it is thoroughly washed and leached of all salts. It is very well drained and it is excellent for cutting that root up quickly. Equal parts of sand and peat moss have good results for cuttings, which are left for a period of time to allow the roots to form.

Vermiculite and perlite are also used as a well-drained rooting media but has the same disadvantage as sand having no nutrients. The cuttings must be potted up as soon as the roots developed, or a light application of liquid fertiliser can be applied.

Types of Cuttings

Stem cuttings

These are the main types of cuttings.

1. Softwood cuttings

These cuttings are taken from young growth on side shoots and tip growth.

2. Semi hardwood cuttings 

These cuttings are taken from wood that is firmer and semi ripe usually during mid summer.

3. Hardwood cuttings 

These cuttings are taken from mature wood normally towards the end of the season.

4. Root cuttings

Cut sections of roots to obtain new plants during late winter to early spring.

5. Leaf cuttings

Cut the leaf blade in order to obtain new plants during the growing period of the plant.

Cutting preparation

Hardwood cuttings 

When taking hardwood cuttings remove the leaves and in semi hardwood reduce the number of leaves by half. Cut the wood straight across just below a node or joint. Hardwood cuttings are normally between 100 to 760 mm long and may have either a heel of the older wood attached to the base, or a short section of the older wood at the base. These cuttings are prepared during the dormant season from late autumn to early spring and are made up from previous season's growth.

This type of cutting is used for woody deciduous plants such as Crepe Myrtle, Rose rootstocks and some fruit trees.

The cuttings should be healthy wood with ample supply of stored food as to nourish developing roots and shoots and placed in the rooting media with the aid of a dibbler stick.

Softwood cuttings 

The cuttings for softwood should be 60 to 130 mm long and be of material with enough substance as to not deteriorate before the new roots appear. Cut below a node and retain the leaves on the upper portion. Place in a well-drained media and maintain a high humidity.

Soaking the cuttings and leaving them standing in water for long periods is undesirable.

Herbaceous cuttings  

These cuttings are taken from succulent plants such as Geraniums and Coleus. The cutting should be 70 to 130 mm long with leaves retained on the upper end. As in softwood cuttings these require an environment of high humidity. Some fleshy cuttings ooze sap and may require a drying period for a few hours before being placed in the rooting media.

Leaf cutting

In these cuttings a leaf blade and petiole or part off is used to raise a new plant.  The original leaf doses not become a part of the new plant as roots and shoots appear from the base of the leaf. In some cases roots appear from the severed veins.

Leaf-Bud cuttings

These cuttings incorporate a leaf, petiole and a small piece of the stem. These cuttings are an advantage where the plant uses the axillary bud at the base of the petiole for new shoot growth and maximises available propagation material, as each node will produce a new plant.

As in softwood cuttings these require an environment with high humidity and warmth.

Root cuttings

These cuttings are best taken from younger plants during late winter to early spring prior the new season's growth unless the dormant period is during summer.

Trim the roots as they are dug up and to maintain polarity cut strength at the crown end and a slanted cut at the distal end (away from the crown).

Root cuttings of small plants are placed in flats in lengths of 20 to 50 mm and laying horizontally on the surface of the soil. These may be lightly covered with sieved sand or media, watered and then placing a piece of glass or polyethylene over the container till roots / shoots appear.

Fleshy root cuttings

These cuttings should be 50 to 75 mm long and placed vertically in a well-drained sand media.

Keep the polarity correct and when the roots develop transplant the cuttings into a separate container.

Large root cuttings

These cuttings are 50 to 150 mm long and are tied up in bundles and placed in boxes of damp sand, sawdust or peat for about three weeks at a temperature of 4. 5 deg C.  When taken out they should be planted in a prepared bed 50 to 80 mm apart with the tops of the cuttings level with or just below the soil level.

Crown division

The crown is the part of the plant at the surface of the soil where new shoots arise. With lateral shoots the crown of some plants requires division when they become crowded.

Herbaceous perennials and multi-branched woody shrubs may develop large crowns that need dividing.

It is a simple method of propagation that is used by amateurs and professionals for a small increase in plants.

Plants that flower during spring to summer are divided during autumn and if flowering in summer to autumn they are divided in spring. The crown is dug up and cut with a knife in to sections, which has a shoot and abundant roots then planted or potted up. The crown may also be divided in some species by using a shovel to cut and dig sections out.